BOMARZO, CALCATA, CAPRAROLA – NORTH OF ROME
The landscape hasn’t changed much since the Etruscans’ days: rolling volcanic hills, dark tufa cliffs, surrounded by thick woods, hazel groves, deep valleys, crystalline circular lakes. No industrial areas, no modern towns. Silence. Rome, with its bustle, is only an hour’s drive away.

Add to this enchanting backdrop a handful of tiny Medieval villages perched on top of steep rocks, that seem to be generated by the pen of a Walk Disney cartoonist, add some sophisticated Renaissance and post-Renaissance villas built by some of the wealthiest patrician Roman families, surrounded by huge spectacular gardens.

Last, add a mysterious Holy Wood of Monsters!

Our day in Tuscia – this is the old name of this region, including the province of Viterbo and its surroundings, begins in Rome around 8.30 or 9.00 am, when a private minivan, with English-speaking driver and  professional guide will pick you up from the hotel. We’ll stop first at Bomarzo’s Park of Monsters, then at Villa Farnese in Caprarola, and finally at Old Calcata.

Bomarzo’s Sacred Wood, was created in the mid16th century to ease the sorrow of nobleman Vicino Orsini, after his wife’s death, and then abandoned for three centuries after his death.

A surreal combination of giant statues of animals, gods, and ‘monsters’, that seem to be sprawling up directly from the ground, scattered in apparent disorder amid quite thick vegetation.

Scholars are still debating about the sources that inspired Vicino, who had a humanist culture and was a friend of all the most important intellectuals of his time.

Salvador Dalì and Michelangelo Antonioni visited it before restoration and were inspired by its mysterious, evocative, atmosphere. As to say, it is not just a place that will entertain your children!

After a stroll in the charming hilltop village of Bomarzo, overlooking the River Tiber’s Valley, our journey continues to Caprarola, where we visit Villa Farnese and its Gardens, a jewel of late Renaissance (or Manneristic) architecture, designed by the great architect Pirro Ligorio.

Originally meant to be a military fortress, it still preserves a unique pentagonal shape, although the five defensive corners were soon transformed into splendid terraces opened to the landscape.

Your guide will sketch for you the outstanding figure of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese the Younger , son of Pope Paul III (quite common in those days) and great art collector. 

After a visit to the unusual and impressive circular interior of the villa, decorated by all the best artists of the time, we’ll enjoy the so-called Farnese Orchards, a huge, elegant Manneristic park lavishly decorated with fountains, stairs, and sculptures.

Lunch will be an occasion to enjoy the excellent lake fish, maybe paired with some of the renown local wines (did you ever hear of one named ‘Est, Est, Est!’?) and relax sitting outside.

The third gem of our itinerary is Calcata, which stands like a cupcake on top of a rock spur, surrounded by a splendid vegetation. Stopping at taking photos from a distance is an absolute  must!
Your guide will tell you the story of this village, that, under Mussolini, was supposed to be demolished, as it was considered unsafe due to fear of slides and earthquakes. The inhabitants were moved to the new Calcata nearby, and the old village totally abandoned.

In the ‘60es, in a totally different political and economical situation,  Old Calcata began to attract hippies and artists from all over; the order of destroying was rescinded by the new government. Supposed to be at the center of a mysterious and powerful ancient source of positive energy, the village became a paradise for artists, freaks, and New Age people.

In 2007 The New York Times dedicated an article to Calcata, defining it: “the grooviest village in Italy”. Strolling around its cobbled alleys we’ll visit some of the art galleries and perhaps meet some of its very special 100 inhabitants. We suggest, however, not to go on the weekend: too many Romans!

We leave Calcata with the desire to stay there longer and absorb its magical atmosphere and creative vibes. It’s time to head back to the great capital. Roma Bella will welcome us back!

If you’re in Rome and feel like exploring outside you might like our tour in Tivoli